How to make a water pump with your own hands: we disassemble the 13 best home-made options

Water at a summer cottage is required not only for owners to comply with sanitary and hygienic standards. It is necessary for watering plants, caring for the territory and pets, refreshing and bathing in the hot summer season. Agree that all the required volume is difficult to lift from the source manually with buckets.

However, there is a way to alleviate the difficult fate of summer residents - this is a home-made pump for water. Even if there is no money to buy pumping equipment, you can become the proud owner of a useful technical device. Literally one power of thought is sometimes enough to build it.

We have collected and systematized for you valuable information on the manufacture of virtually free homemade products. The models presented for consideration were tested in practice and deservedly received recognition from the owners. A thorough description of the manufacturing technology is supplemented by diagrams, photo and video materials.

Design # 1 - Liquid Overflow Pump

This pump is likely to be the simplest and cheapest, because the starting materials are literally dumped, i.e. don't cost anything at all.

To implement the ideas for its assembly, the following materials are required:

• plastic bottle with cork;
• plastic bottle without cork;
• a piece of plastic pipe of suitable diameter;
• discharge hose.

To start, you need to make a flap valve.

We take out the gasket from the lid of the plastic bottle.We cut in a circle so that the gasket in diameter becomes smaller than the neck of the bottle. In this case, you need to leave untouched a narrow sector, about 15-20 degrees.

The sector must be left so wide that it can swing easily, but not come off

In the center of the cap from the plastic bottle, we drill a hole of about 8 mm. We insert the gasket and screw the trimmed neck.

The purpose of screwing in the neck is to clamp the membrane and get a flap valve

We insert a plastic pipe into the finished valve. From the second plastic bottle, cut off the top. It should be something like a fence funnel. We fix it over a plastic pipe.

At the other end of the plastic pipe we put a drain hose. The simplest home-made pump for pumping water is ready.

The conical portion will help the fluid open the petal. In addition, the valve will not hit the bottom

With a sharp movement of the hand up and down, we make the liquid rise through the plastic pipe to the spout. Then the fluid will flow by gravity.

There are other options:

To use a surface or submersible piston pump, tubular well - well, which can also be drilled independently as an Abyssinian well or drilled.

Design # 2 - Hand Pump with Direct Spout

A very simple device for pumping water from a barrel, mine well. Advantages of this design: speed of assembly, cheap cost.

Necessary Details:

• PVC pipe d.50mm - 1 pc.;
• 50 mm PVC coupling - 1 pc;
• PPR pipe d.24mm - 1 pc.;
• branch PPR d.24 - 1 pc;
• PVC plug d.50mm - 2 pcs.;
• piece of rubber d.50mm, 3-4mm thick - 1pc;
• 15mm check valve - 1 pc.;
• empty silicone bottle 330ml - 1pc;
• coupling screw clamp - 1 pc;
• screw nut or rivet - 1 pc;
• coupling nut d.15 - 1 pc.

The assembly of the entire structure begins with the manufacture of a check valve.

Check valve construction. We prepare the check valve from the plug Ø 50mm. We drill a few holes around the perimeter of the plug Ø 5-6mm. In the center, drill a hole of suitable diameter for a pair of screw-nut or rivet.

On the inside of the plug we impose a rubber disc Ø 50mm. The disc must not rub against the walls of the plug, but must cover all drilled holes. In the center we tighten with a screw-nut or rivet, the screw will not work. If you encounter difficulties with materials or workmanship, you can replace it with a prefabricated check valve.

What is a check valve prefabricated used for the operation of the pumping station, described in detail in our recommended article.

Preparing the pump sleeve. The length of the sleeve should be commensurate with the depth of the well or container with water. We cut the PVC sewer pipe Ø 50mm of the desired length, from the narrow end. We insert the valve just made into the pipe bell. For reliability, fasten with screws on both sides.

For the second end, we prepare a plug with a pre-drilled hole Ø 25mm. This hole in the plug is made according to the diameter of the pipe PPR Ø 24. Great accuracy is not required, the plug serves as a support for sliding.

Piston assembly procedure. We cut off the nose from an empty silicone bottle.Next, it is necessary to heat the cylinder and insert it into the PVC sleeve so that the diameter of the cylinder exactly matches the diameter of the sleeve. We put a can of silicone on the valve on the back of the arrow (the arrow on the check valve shows the direction of water movement).

We cut off the excess cylinder. We fix with a union nut d.15.

The device of the pump rod. The stem length should be 50-60 cm longer than the sleeve length. One end of the stem must be warmed up and a check valve inserted. The arrow on the check valve should point inside the stem. Until the pipe has finally cooled down, we tighten it with a screw clamp.

Final assembly of the pump. We insert the rod into the sleeve, on top through the coupling we fasten the plug (sliding support). To top it off, at the end of the stem pipe we fasten the 24mm PPR bend. It remains to connect the hose and you can pump water.

The pipe material can be any, and the cross section is not necessarily round. It is important to choose a suitable piston for the sleeve.

The branch serves as a support for the hand. For convenience, you can take a tee and drown one side of it.

Construction # 3 - hand pump with side spout

The previous design has one, but a significant drawback. Spout moves with the stem. This design is not much more complicated, but much more convenient.

The sleeve must be improved. Add to the construction a PVC tee of d. 50mm with a bend of 35 degrees. The tee must be inserted into the top of the sleeve. In the rod, near the piston, we drill several holes of large diameter, the main thing is not to overdo it and not violate the rigidity of the entire structure.

The piston moving upwards pushes the fluid into the outlet pipe. Top cap supports piston rod

Now water will begin to pour out into the space between the stem and the sleeve. When the piston moves up, water will flow into the spout.

Design # 4 - Piston Well Pump

This pump design is suitable for wells of no more than 8 meters. The principle of operation is based on the vacuum created by the piston inside the cylinder. Useful homemade can be a great alternative factory-made pumping equipment, will help to solve the problems of water production for servicing the cottage.

In such pumps, the top cover is either absent or has a slit-like opening, since the stem is rigidly connected to the handle

Necessary materials:

• metal pipe d.100mm., length 1m .;
• rubber;
• piston;
• two valves.

Pump performance directly depends on the tightness of the entire structure.

A detailed description of the manufacturing process of a piston pump for use in a summer cottage can be found in one of popular articles our site.

Step # 1: Assembly Unit Assembly

For the manufacture of the pump sleeve, it is necessary to pay attention to the inner surface, it must be even and smooth. A liner from a truck engine might be a good option.

From below, a steel bottom must be welded to the liner along the diameter of the wellhead. In the center of the bottom, either a flap valve or a factory valve is installed.

A cover is made for the top of the sleeve, although this part is more aesthetic, you can do without it. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the hole for the piston rod is slit-shaped.

Step # 2: Build the Pump Piston

For the piston, you need to take 2 metal discs. Between them lay not very thick rubber 1cm, a little larger diameter than the wheels. Next, we tighten the discs with bolts.

As a result, the rubber disc is squeezed and a sandwich of metal and rubber should be obtained. The point is to create a rubber rim around the piston edge, which will form the necessary piston-sleeve seal.

It remains to install the valve and weld the ear for the stem.

Step # 3. Rubber flap valve manufacturing

The petal valve consists of a rubber disc of not very large thickness. Disc size must be larger than inlet openings. A hole is drilled in the center of the rubber.Through this hole and the pressure plate, the rubber disc is mounted on top of the inlets.

When sucking in, the edges of the rubber rise and water begins to flow. During the reverse stroke, pressure is created: rubber reliably blocks the inlet openings.

Step # 4: Final assembly and installation

It is advisable to cut threads on the well head and on the bottom of the pump sleeve. The thread will make it easy to remove the pump for maintenance and make the installation airtight.

Install the top cover and attach the handle to the stem. For comfortable work, the end of the handle can be wrapped with electrical tape or rope, laying a turn to turn.

If the pump does not pump water, it is necessary to eliminate all leaks, including in connection with the head of the well (+)

The restriction on the depth of the well is due to the theoretical impossibility to create a vacuum of more than 1 atmosphere. If the well is deeper, you will have to modify the pump to deep.

Design # 5 - Submersible Piston Pump

The difference from a conventional piston pump is that the pump sleeve must be installed to the depth of the well. In this case, the stem length is more than 10 meters.

The wellbore can serve as the sleeve of such a pump, and the suspended load can serve as a spring (+)

There are two ways to solve this problem:

1. Make the stem from a lighter material, such as an aluminum pipe.
2. Make a stem from a chain.

An explanation is needed for the second option. In this case, the stem is not hard. The bottom of the sleeve is connected to the piston bottom with a return spring.

Construction # 6 - American or Spiral Type

The spiral pump uses the energy of the river. For work, the minimum requirements must be met: depth - at least 30 cm, flow velocity - at least 1.5 m / s.

Option 1

Necessary materials:

• flexible hose d.50mm;
• several hose clamps;
• fence - PVC pipe d. 150mm;
• wheel;
• pipe reducer.

The main difficulty in such a pump is a pipe gearbox. This can be found in decommissioned sewage machines or get from factory equipment.

For greater efficiency, the impeller is attached to the pump

Flexible hose with clamps attached to the wheel in a spiral. At one end joins a fence made of PVC pipe d. 150mm. The second end of the hose is put on the pipe reducer.

Water is taken in by a water intake and moves in a spiral, creating the necessary pressure in the system. The lifting height depends on the flow velocity and the immersion depth of the intake.

Option 2

Necessary materials:

• flexible hose d.12mm (5);
• plastic barrel d.50cm, length 90cm (7);
• polystyrene (4);
• impeller (3);
• sleeve coupling (2);

At the bottom of the barrel, cut the intake hole. Inside the barrel, lay the hose tightly in a spiral and connect it to the sleeve coupling.

Inside the barrel, the hose is tightly laid, pressed to the walls with a strip. The barrel can be metal with foam floats

To give buoyancy inside the barrel, it is necessary to glue foam floats. Finally, screw the impeller.

For this design, the drain hose should be 25 mm. in diameter.

Design # 7 - Wave Energy Pump

As the name implies, such pumps use wave energy. Of course, the lakes are not so big waves, but the pump works around the clock and can pump up to 20 cubic meters per day.

Option 1

Necessary materials:

• float;
• corrugated pipe;
• two valves;
• mast mount.

The float is a pipe, a log, is selected depending on the rigidity of the corrugated pipe, empirically.

Corrugated pipe can be made of plastic or metal. The weight of the log needs to be selected experimentally

Two valves operating in the same direction are mounted in a corrugated pipe.

When the float moves down, the corrugated pipe stretches, as a result, water is drawn. When the float moves up, the corrugation contracts and pushes the water up.Therefore, the float should be quite heavy and large.

The entire structure is rigidly attached to the mast.

Option 2

This design differs from the first option in that the corrugated pipe is replaced by a brake chamber. This diaphragm-based design is very often used in do-it-yourself simple water pumps. Such a pump is quite versatile and can receive energy from wind, water, steam, the sun.

The brake chamber should be disassembled and only two valve openings should be left.

Instead of home-made valves, you can use ready-made, plumbing. Washers must be of sufficient diameter so that the diaphragm does not tear (+)

Making suitable valves is a separate task.

Necessary materials:

• copper or brass pipe;
• balls with a slightly larger diameter - 2 pcs.;
• spring;
• copper strip or bar;
• rubber.

For the inlet valve, we cut off the tube and drill it so that the ball fits tightly on the tube. It is necessary to ensure that the ball does not pass water. In order to prevent the ball from falling out, solder a wire or strip from above.

The design of the exhaust valve differs from the inlet by the presence of a spring. The spring must be installed between the ball and the copper strip.

From the rubber we cut out the diaphragm to the size of the brake chamber. To drive the diaphragm, you need to drill a hole in the center and stretch the stud. We insert the valve from below the brake chamber. For sealing, you can use epoxy glue.

Balls for valves are better to find not metal, so they will not be subject to corrosion.

Option 3

Based on the design of the two previous options, you can think about building a more advanced model.

It is advisable to choose a dry and non-resinous log, so it will be easier, pay attention to the absence of cracks

For this pump, four stakes (1) must be driven into the bottom of the pond. Then make a log float. It is necessary to make cuts in the log, so that when swinging on the waves it does not rotate.

For longevity, it is recommended to process the log with a hot composition of a mixture of kerosene and drying oil. You need to do it carefully, handle it in a water bath: there should be no open flame.

The log limiters (3) and (4) are nailed so that the log does not damage the pump rod (5) during maximum movement.

Design # 8 - a device from a washing machine

Often, parts or even entire assemblies from old things remain on the farm. A centrifugal pump can be removed from an already unnecessary washing machine. Such a pump is perfect for pumping water from a depth of 2 meters.

Necessary materials:

• centrifugal pump from the washing machine;
• flap valve from the washing machine or homemade;
• plug; bottle cap;
• hose;
• preferably isolation transformer.

If a ready-made valve from a washing machine is used, then it must be modified. One hole must be plugged, for example using a bottle cap.

Excess pump openings must be plugged. If the case is metal - grounding is mandatory

We connect the petal valve to the hose and lower it into the pit or well. The second end of the hose is connected to the pump. For the system to start working, it is necessary to fill the hose with the valve and the pump itself with water. It remains to connect the transformer, and the pump is ready for operation.

Design # 9 - compressor water pump

If you already have well drilled, there is an air compressor, do not rush to get a water pump. It will be successfully replaced by a structurally simple airlift device.

Necessary materials:

• pouring pipe d.20-30mm .;
• air pipe 10-20mm .;

The principle of the pump is very simple. It is necessary to drill a hole in the spout pipe, they need to be positioned closer to the bottom. The hole should be 2-2.5 times larger in diameter of the air pipe. It remains to insert the air pipe and apply air pressure.

One of the most efficient and simple pumps, does not clog and assemble in 5 minutes

The effectiveness of such a pump depends on the height of the water level, the depth of the reservoir, the compressor capacity (capacity). The efficiency is about 70%.

Construction # 10 - Gear Water Machine

The heart of this design is gear pumps for pumping oil from agricultural or truck equipment. Similar characteristics of the power plant of the power steering from KrAZ.

Unit Specifications:

• pump displacement - 32 cm³;
• maximum pressure - 2.1 bar;
• operating speed - 2400 rpm;
• maximum permissible speed - 3600 rpm;
• nominal pumped volume - 72 l / min.

If possible, an engine from a washing machine is connected to such a pump. The engine of household appliances has several advantages: it works from a single-phase 220V network, has a starting system (capacitor).

Gear mechanisms are left and right, you need to pay attention to the direction of the arrow on the case

To obtain the required speed, pulleys and a belt may be required. The advantage of the gear pump is that the gears are able to create the necessary suction force even without pre-filling with water.

The only remark: after the pump is running to prevent corrosion of steel gears, it is necessary to let the pump run idle for about 20 minutes.

Construction # 11 - Bicycle Wheel Pump

Two-wheel high-performance pump.

Necessary materials:

• PVC sewer pipes and bends;
• bicycle wheel;
• nylon rope;
• small pulley;
• several pistons;
• mounting rod.

The principle of operation of this pump is similar to the operation of a dragline.

First you need to build from sewer pipe a sleeve to be immersed in water. An outlet is placed on the upper part of the sleeve through which water will drain. Next, we install a small pulley from below (a wheel rim from a wheelbarrow is suitable), and a bicycle wheel from above.

Along the entire length of the rope we fasten a series of pistons, having previously passed through the sleeve. The rope should cover the pulley and bicycle wheel.

The device is very effective, especially if you use a bicycle drive. Feet will be much easier to twist.

Rotating a bicycle wheel, each piston on a rope captures water and lifts upwards as if on an elevator. A water column flows into a branch.

Construction # 12 - “homemade” for a small creek

This pump can cost an extremely small amount of energy. Of course it is good if there is a river or lake. But what if the river is shallow in summer? A pump-type pump will help.

Such a pump allows the use of very small values ​​of the energy of a small stream

The main part of the design is two buckets rigidly interconnected via blocks (4). From the stream it is necessary to drain from galvanized steel (3). In order to reduce wear, a piece of plastic is placed under it. The drainage system is rigidly connected by a leash with a rope (5).

The leash 6 is made of rigid wire and the length is calculated so that the drainage moves to the desired angle

The whole system must be adjusted so that when filling one bucket, the drainage will move to the second bucket. The energy of the buckets is transmitted to the pump (10) by means of a crank (8).

Construction # 13 - Shukhov wick pump

The Russian inventor Shukhov became famous for many structures, including the radio tower in Moscow. Below will be considered another of his invention - a water pump.

Pulleys are made compound. The depth of the groove should be slightly less than the swollen rope

The pump uses a special rope. This rope consists of braided cotton threads with a total thickness of 5-6 mm, enclosed in a sheath. The thread is passed through the pulleys.

When the movement occurs, the rope gets wet and wraps around the pulleys.The pulley (5) with the help of a spring (4) forces the rope against the pulley (3). The squeezed water flows into the tray (7). Figure “c” shows sections of pulleys (3) and (5), respectively.

For the whole system to work, an electric motor of only 5-10 watts is needed. Typically, these engines have 1,500 rpm.

To reduce speed and increase effort, you can use the worm gear shown in figure "c". It is quite possible to make it manually. To do this, you need to find a suitable gear wheel, and make the worm out of wire. Small forces on the shaft allow manufacturing inaccuracies.

With your own hands you can assemble not only a pump that pumps water for domestic needs, but also a device that can be successfully used in the landscape design of the site. Successful homemade options fountain pumps will submit the following article.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Clip # 1. The manufacturing process of a simple unit for pumping water:

Clip # 2. Mini version of a homemade water pump:

Clip # 3. The principle of operation of an elementary pump - airlift:

The presented options for home-made pumps for pumping water are made from improvised means, often even without cost. All the charm is that each design is completely open for further improvements and upgrades. So your pump will surely be a unique product.

Of course build autonomous water supply system at the summer cottage, hand pumps will not help, but they will save you from the application of the impressive physical effort required to collect and transport water to the place of use.

Do you have your own interesting solutions for making homemade pumps? Want to share another curious option? Found flaws in the article? Please comment in the box below the text.