Why doesn't the refrigerator work, and does the freezer work? Troubleshooting and troubleshooting
You were about to have a bite to eat and found that the inside of the refrigerator was abnormally warm and the freezer was excessively cold? Or did the compressor run continuously, although it had been silent from time to time yesterday? To learn about the breakdown of such an expensive device is not at all pleasant, is it?
But, perhaps, the problem will not be as global as it seemed at first glance, and everything will be possible to fix it with one's own hand. We will help you find out why the refrigerator does not work, and the freezer is working, and tell you how to fix the detected malfunction.
The article contains the most common causes of this kind of breakdowns, considers ways to correct them. Visual photos and video recommendations from experts have been selected to help locate a malfunction in various models of refrigerators.
The content of the article:
- The device of a typical refrigerator
- The reasons for the lack of cold, their elimination
- No. 1 - the simplest problems of the unit
- No. 2 - breakdowns in conductive systems
- No. 3 - problems with automation, electronics
- No. 4 - refrigerant leak from the system
- No. 5 - malfunction of one of the compressors
- No. 6 - problems with sealing gum
- No. 7 - mechanical and chemical damage
- No. 8 - oxidation and rust on the tubes
- Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The device of a typical refrigerator
The compressor pumps freon (cooling agent) into the condenser assembly with its pressure. There gaseous refrigerant condenses into the liquid fraction. This process is accompanied by the release of heat, which is removed through the rear panel of the refrigerator.
The liquefied freon is fed into the system of thin tubes, after which it again takes on a gaseous state, and when it is in the evaporation unit, it boils. Evaporator and generates cold. Freon completes his circuit, returning to the compressor.
The resulting cold primarily goes to the freezer, and from it is already fed to the refrigerator - forcibly or naturally. This gives the freezer the ability to maintain a cool temperature even when some parts of the unit break down.
As soon as there is a lack of cold in the cooling compartment with a properly functioning freezer, you need to try to analyze the situation yourself.
The user actions in case of suspected malfunction of the unit should be as follows:
- establish through observation which particular chamber does not get cold;
- check if there are any heat sources near the refrigerator, for example, radiators, heaters, stoves, etc .;
- determine whether the rubber door gasket is intact, whether there are objects (pieces of food, crumbs, etc.) that prevent the door from closing tightly.
It will also be useful to examine the rear surface of the refrigerator for mechanical damage, and for all components and systems for rye and oxide.
The reasons for the lack of cold, their elimination
With proper operation of the freezer compartment, the causes of damage to the refrigerator compartment can be very different. As an ordinary temporary lack of electricity in the network, as well as a serious breakdown of the compressor, which almost always leads to its rather expensive replacement.
No. 1 - the simplest problems of the unit
Before starting the analysis of the problem, you should make sure that the unit is connected correctly to the electrical network, that wires, extension cords, outlets, and that the power supply to the room is working properly.
One of the culprits is a loose closing of the camera door due to user oversight. There is a constant intake of warm air from the room inside.
Cold may be absent due to the long period of operation of the refrigerator without scheduled defrosts. It is necessary to turn off the unit, carefully defrost it and turn it on again in a day.
There are situations when the freezer compartment is filled with products too tightly, so that there is practically no free space. According to the rules of operation, this is undesirable, since there should still be a space for air circulation.
When the products for freezing lie close to each other and tightly packed, all the compressor power is spent on freezing its huge volume, and there is not enough cold for the remaining compartments.
The refrigerator itself may not be installed correctly - right next to the wall, when the heat cannot be completely removed, or close to heaters - temperature detectors get confused. They give the compressor signals to increase its power, but cooling in the refrigerator does not occur, because it turns into heat along the way.
This malfunction mainly occurs if the freezer box is installed inside the refrigerator. This problem is eliminated by a complete long-term defrosting of the entire unit, installing it away from heat sources, switching on in standard rather than enhanced mode.
No. 2 - breakdowns in conductive systems
In order to understand the causes of more complex breakdowns, you need to know how it works and how the refrigerator works. Only then will the origin of the problem be understood. As a result, the correct ways to solve the problem can be found.
Capillary system. The culprit in the capillary system may be the culprit of the breakdown due to the ingress of foreign substances into the pipeline - moisture, oils, litter from the filter that has become unusable, and so on.
Due to clogging, the cooler does not reach the end - everything is in order with freezing, even ice will form there. And the products in the second chamber are not cooled - it is warm in this compartment.
Signs of clogging of capillaries can be confused with a breakdown of a different nature - a malfunction of the evaporator. To accurately determine the cause of the problem, analyze the temperature of the discharge system in the section "condenser-compressor". If the heating there is insignificant or partial, and the cooling is quick, then the cause is a blockage in the capillaries.
However, there is an opportunity to correct the situation on your own: if the congestion is simple, then a light tapping on the pipeline will move the cork from its place and the path for freon will be freed.
If tapping does not help, you need to contact a master who professionally cleans the tubes, installs a new clean filter, replaces the freon, and removes unnecessary air from the evaporator.
Drainage system. The drainage system in refrigerators with a weeping wall may become clogged. If it is not cleaned for a long time, congestion may appear in it that does not completely allow melt water to pass through, it accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and flows out.
Over time, plastic cracks, and water flows into the gaps and oxidizes the metal parts of the device, corrosion corrodes them, and the refrigerant starts to leak out. They clean the drainage system using a regular pharmacy rubber bulb. It is filled with hot water and poured into the channel with a sharp movement under the greatest pressure.
If necessary, this is repeated several times until the system is completely cleaned. Dirty drained water from a special tray should be removed after the procedure.
Another tool for cleaning the drainage system is a bicycle / car hand pump. If these devices are not available, or the blockage is stuck very firmly, a long wire / wire will help.
The tip of the wire is bent into a loop and inserted into the drain hole with twisting movements, while feeding it back and forth. The duration of the procedure is about three minutes. You can combine two methods - wire cleaning with a spill of water.
You can check the result of efforts by testing the system. Some water is poured into the drainage tube and the drain rate is noticed in a natural way. If it does not go away, the cleaning procedure is repeated.
No. 3 - problems with automation, electronics
A temperature detector is installed in the refrigerator. It can be damaged by substances and liquids that have fallen from food, or have a factory defect.
If the sensor shows incorrect information, refrigerator compressor It operates at high power and quickly fails during such operation. The solution is to replace the detector with a new serviceable module, which can only be done by a specialist.
Other built-in sensors and electronic control systems can also malfunction, and mechanical buttons break and become clogged. Unnaturally long interruptions in the operation of the compressor will tell about such problems, when the electronics incorrectly show the air temperature in the refrigerator compartment and sets the wrong mode of operation.
It is recommended to inspect all electronic and automatic elements for serviceability, in case of failure, replace unusable parts. It is better to turn to a qualified master for this, unless the user himself has the necessary knowledge and skills in this area.
If the refrigeration unit is equipped with one compressor and NoFrost system, then the problem may be caused by a jam in the camera cooling regulator. If this occurs in maximum cold mode, the compressor cannot handle the high load. The solution is to replace the valve.
No. 4 - refrigerant leak from the system
Freon can enter the room air through micro-holes in the tube system. These holes occur during improper use.
For example, in a situation where the refrigerator has not been defrosted for too long and a thick layer of ice has grown on the tubes, and there is little time for defrosting.
The less freon left in the refrigeration unit, the less cold will be generated, and the compressor will receive an additional large load and wear out faster. In this case, it is recommended to immediately seal the system and charge refrigerant. This requires special equipment and knowledge.
No. 5 - malfunction of one of the compressors
In refrigerators equipped with two compressors, only one of them breaks down. Then the freezer compartment works properly, and the refrigeration compartment does not receive its portion of cold. A sign of this is the start of the compressor and an instant stop or its complete inoperability.
In almost all cases, this problem is resolved by replacing the failed module.
No. 6 - problems with sealing gum
The rubber seal on the door of the refrigerator compartment may be damaged, peeled off, and dried. The drying of the rubber element is mainly due to the long idle time of the unit in a state of inactivity.
Due to a malfunction of the seal, warm air from the room is able to penetrate the chamber and increase its internal temperature. The compressor amplifies its power, pumping more and more cold, but this does not save the situation, but only wears it out.
For a dried rubber pad it is possible to try to restore the lost elasticity by treating with boiling water:
- they take it off;
- soaked in boiling water;
- then set in place.
If the gap is formed in a single copy and is small, you can simply glue the seal in this place with silicone, instant glue. As a temporary option before acquiring and installing new gum You can fill the resulting gaps with cardboard inserts.
Sometimes the situation is corrected by hinging the door in the opposite direction, but here you need to consider the location of the refrigerator in the room, because there must be free space to open the door.
It happens that the door does not close tightly, not because of problems with the seal, but from the arising of the fragility of its fastening, when the fasteners are loosened. Then you need to tighten the hinges, screws, and the problem will be eliminated.
No. 7 - mechanical and chemical damage
Mechanical damages may appear on the case of the refrigerator - cracks, holes in the back wall.Usually they form after improper transportation, operation.
This is fraught with the penetration of warm air from the room into the refrigerator. The temperature inside cannot reach the desired level, compressor runs non-stopbut this does not fix the problem.
If the hole is small, you can try to fix it yourself. To do this, the refrigerator is turned off, completely thawed and dried, the damaged area is carefully cut off, filled with new insulation or foam with its further foil coating.
An area with a risk of cracking is located near all fasteners - too tight tension of nuts can subsequently lead to breaks in these places. Repair gaps in the same way - with the help of sealing with a sealant.
No. 8 - oxidation and rust on the tubes
Before diagnosing the oxidation of the metal tubes of a refrigerator, you should know that green layers are not related to corrosion. This is a consequence of the interaction of solder flux with oxygen in the room. Such a plaque is prohibited.
The danger of tube corrosion is that over time it completely corrodes their walls, through the formed holes the refrigerant starts to leak into the air, the compressor operates at maximum power.
Contrary to this, the cold does not enter the refrigerator compartment, because it is only enough for servicing the freezer. If measures are not taken in time and traces of corrosion are not eliminated, the compressor will fail, and then unit repair will be expensive.
Rust treatment is effective against rust stains with a rust converter, which can be found in special stores, or with ordinary household vinegar (9%). Before processing, it is recommended that they be tested in small quantities in one small area.
If no surprises have arisen, the product is used on all rusted areas, left for some time for the reaction of surface oxidation with air, polished with a soft cloth.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A selection of stories to identify diverse problems with refrigerators of different brands and the process of troubleshooting.
Video tips on how to properly look for a malfunction: before disassembling the components, the unit must be completely defrosted without using force. The video demonstrates how a properly working know-how evaporator should look like:
Finding the reason for the lack of cold in the refrigerator compartment of the Atlant unit with the freezer operating. An example of a fault diagnosis in a compressor.
Video tutorial on replacing a compressor with a working one using special tools:
Indesit refrigerator: troubleshooting a leak in the heating circuit in the video:
It must be remembered that the correct operation and timely quality service of the refrigeration unit will maintain its operability for many years.
If the cold still ceases to flow into one of the refrigerator compartments, then it remains to be found out the background of the problem that caused this breakdown. Knowing her, you can independently try to fix everything on your own.
Want to talk about how to restore the performance of the refrigerator with your own hands? Do you have useful information on the topic of the article, which is worth sharing with site visitors? Please write comments in the block form below, ask questions and post a photo on the topic of the article.
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I have a slightly different problem. In the freezer, the temperature did not become as low as it was at the beginning of operation. In the main compartment of the refrigerator, as far as I can tell, the temperature is kept within the limits stated in the passport, but in the freezer it is 7-8 degrees higher than it was. What do you need to check first? Refrigerator - Atlas, model XM 4208.
This refrigerator model has one compressor, if the refrigerator compartment is working, it means it is working. The very first thing to check is whether the freezer is tightly closed, maybe something is in the way. Well, the rest you can hardly diagnose yourself, call the wizard.
A similar problem was in my fridge. But he still began to work loudly. Began to buzz, make a sound, as if water was being drawn into the toilet. But I tried not to pay attention to it until the refrigerator completely failed - his compressor was broken. Then the master told me that an increase in temperature in the freezer and loud noises were already signs of a partial failure of the compressor.
Most often, this is a simple congestion in capillary or drainage systems. It is solved with a little brushing or tapping. All the rest, you still can not fix it yourself.
I advise you to clean the drainage system at least once every 3 months, avoid all problems.
The refrigerator compartment does not work, but the freezer also works. Refrigerator single compressor Indesit SB16740. What could be the cause of the malfunction?
Hello Marina. This article details in detail the possible causes of such a breakdown. Let's start the diagnosis with you by checking the rubber bands on the door of your refrigerator. It is necessary to inspect them for wear, lack of quality fit.
Then you pull all the food out of the refrigerator, set it evenly and start defrosting. If I’m not mistaken, in this model of the refrigerator, in the freezer compartment, the thawed moisture must be removed manually, and the refrigerator is thawed dropwise. Pour some warm liquid into the drainage hole and see if there are any problems with its drainage flow. Gently clean the drainage, especially carefully if there are blockages.
Remember that it is impossible to defrost a freezer by any means. Do not scrape ice, use a hair dryer or other heat emitters. Let the refrigerator stand for a day, wipe it dry, and then turn it on completely empty to the maximum low-temperature mode and check how things are in the refrigerator compartment and how freezer freezes.
Report the test results here. Also, if possible, please supplement with information which symptoms, in addition to the elevated temperature environment, are observed in your refrigerator. Maybe it turns on more often, “cries”, the compressor or something else is somehow not buzzing. How often do you open the refrigerator where it is installed, is there around the heating units too close, is it clogged with food.
We will be waiting for your reply.
One of the possible problems and quite common ones is the breakdown of the fan in the freezer or its freezing. Defining a breakdown is very simple.When the compressor is working, open the freezer and raise your hand to the back wall, cold air should blow from it. If there is no air movement, then the problem is in it.
Another problem with the capillary tube is also possible, over time it rots inside the refrigerator case. Repair in two ways.
1. Some masters offer to open the insulation and solder - this is an expensive way and in the future is likely to greatly increase energy consumption. The reason is that the factory thermal insulation of the refrigerator is violated and, accordingly, refrigerators and freezers heat up faster. The compressor often starts to turn on / off, which significantly reduces its service life.
2. You can solder into a small circle. To carry out repairs of such a plan, it will not be necessary to open the skin. Make sure to replace the dehumidifier filter. At each injection of freon, it is recommended to replace it. This method is more economical in terms of money and will not reduce the compressor’s engine life planned by the manufacturer.
All other reasons are present in the article.
Does not chill the refrigerator compartment upstairs in the Indesit refrigerator - what could it be?
Have you read the article carefully? There are the main reasons that lead to the fact that the refrigerator does not work, most of these points apply to the case with the freezer. In fact, this is a fairly common problem when one of the cameras of a two-chamber refrigerator stops working.
From what you can check yourself, I can highlight the following points:
- reliability and wear of the seal;
- the voltage in the network (corny, but true) sometimes due to weak voltage one of the cameras does not turn on;
- defrost the refrigerator and de-energize it for 24-48 hours;
- if the freezer is clogged to the eyeballs, this interferes with air circulation.
These are the main points, if this is not the case, then call the wizard.
Hello, I have a Samsung Know Frost and the defrost heater does not turn on. TEN worker. I checked what could be - the refrigerator does not chill after defrosting. It works 5 days on the display showing a temperature of 4 degrees, but in fact it is warmer. Turn off the power outlet and turn on the temperature - it shows the room, after defrosting everything shows fine, and after 5 days everything is new.
Hello. Try to ring TAB and check the fuse. Let us know the results.
Good day. Beko refrigerator. Two chamber. 145-160 high like.
The crying wall freezes, and the products do not cool. Once they missed the scheduled defrosts. Briefly froze.
There were problems, mainly with drainage. But I checked, even poured some water. I don’t understand ... The second time we remove the ice coat! But if there is ice in the chamber, then why is everything else not cooling? The freezer is tightly loaded, but previously this did not interfere. The inter-chamber wall is hot on the side - it works all the time apparently.
Good day, Andrey. From your words, the fan in the freezer seems to have frozen. This is precisely because of the one-time dense loading of the freezer.
Look, an almost empty freezer and you immediately fill it to the maximum. The process can conditionally be called “micro defrosting”. Moisture condenses on the axis of the fan; as the temperature rises, the water naturally turns into ice and stops its operation. The refrigerator is not new, this can happen.
Hot wall due to the fact that the set temperature is not being pumped up and the thermal sensor does not work. You urgently need to solve the problem, otherwise you risk “killing” the compressor. In this case, the cost of repair will increase significantly.
Good afternoon. Thank you for the article.There is a question, I have a two-chamber Indesit refrigerator. At the bottom, the freezer is working fine, but the top has begun to be naughty. Recently stopped working, I turned off and decided to call the wizard.
Two days passed, I just decided to turn it on, and, lo and behold, the refrigerator worked! But the joy lasted a week and the picture repeated itself. Does not work, one day after a shutdown it works again. What could be the reason? Thank.
Hello. I suspect that your capillary tube is freezing, perhaps even something with a filter drier. Because you turned off the refrigerator, that is, it was completely thawed and the ice plug, it turns out too, then turned it on - it worked fine, and then the jam formed again and, accordingly, the refrigerator stopped working again.
However, not necessarily an ice plug, maybe just a blockage, which is pushed when the pressure changes. In general, check the capillary tube first.
Good afternoon, tell me please: Candy CCPS 6180WRU refrigerator, the refrigerator has stopped cooling and the light is off, while the freezer is working properly! Defrosted - the situation has not changed. What could it be!? Thank!
Hello. Unfortunately, we can only assume the cause of the breakdown, since a complete dial-up of the system is necessary. But if the light does not turn on despite the fact that this is not just a coincidence and at the same time there is a problem with the power supply to the lighting or a burned out (incorrectly selected light bulb), we can first of all assume a wiring malfunction.
There is also a completely banal possible reason - something with a fitting door. Then just the bulb was not contacted and burned out, and heat came from outside to the refrigerator compartment.
Good afternoon. Refrigerator Orsk 257-01. The freezer is working, the refrigerator compartment is warm. The compressor runs without stopping. Thawed completely - the result is unchanged. Also, the green indicator on the refrigerator does not light, but when checking with the tester, there is voltage, the LED apparently burned out. The door fits snugly.
Hello. It looks like your refrigerant circulation is disturbed. It is necessary to clean the capillary tube. But a 100% diagnosis can only be made by diagnosing the system.
Good afternoon. The freezer was not tightly closed, and during the day, accordingly, it froze.
They defrosted, after it only the freezer began to work, the upper compartment does not work at all. This is accompanied by all the sounds of water in the toilet. We moved the refrigerator, it’s wet under it. What is it and how to fix it? Thank.
Hello. Most likely a blockage or ice plug. Defrost again and try to clean (defrost for at least 12 hours with the refrigerator doors open).
Good afternoon. Refrigerator Stinol 107 ER. For a long time he stood in the garage. When turned on, it was recorded that the temperature in the freezer is -9 degrees, and the refrigerator does not work. A freon master was called.
The master considered that the leak was due to “high pressure” and the cost of repair increased. After the repair was completed, the refrigerator compartment started working, but the freezer stopped working. The master claims that the problem is in the impeller. Should I believe these assumptions or should I contact another service company?
There are two options: either the master is not competent, or he just wants to cut money from you, sorry for being blunt. Here it is not a matter of freon leakage, gas could not cause a freezer that did not work, and then everything changed exactly the opposite.Therefore, feel free to contact another company or another master who will eliminate the cause. By the way, here it is an electrician or a controller, but not a freon leak.
Atlant refrigerator with freezer below. The refrigerator did not work for a year, before that it was fully operational, it was stored in a warm room. Turned on - the freezer is working, but the refrigerator is warm, it does not turn off. Erasers are all good, it is almost new. What could be the problem?
Hello. Suppose there is a problem with the thermostat sensor or a malfunction in program control. Please specify the model of the refrigerator.
Here it is still important to understand the conditions in which the refrigerator was located all this time: was there increased humidity in the room, for example? This could lead to problems with the wiring, as well as rodents, in particular mice, which could bite somewhere (there were such cases in my memory).
It is also possible that you have a leak on the heating circuit. In a similar case, the Indesit refrigerator needed a circuit replacement in two places. But here you need to call the master with the tools, plus you will need gas refueling. By the way, it may also be that the temperature sensor is junk - check it first.
Good afternoon. Refrigerator Atlant 1700. We bought it already in 2003. The freezer is below. No rust, cracks, gum in order. A few years ago, after defrosting, the cold chamber stopped working. After reading about the simplest repair options, I knocked and earned. For a long time everything was fine. A month ago, I had to fill the freezer to the eyeballs, immediately the cold chamber was covered. Inside was a temperature of +25. Two days later, she returned to normal +10. But in the upper part, ice began to build up, in a huge lump, then ice appeared in the area of the boxes. Thawed. Again the freezer is working, the main camera is not. A day has passed, the temperature is +25.
Hello. You made several mistakes at once when using the refrigerator:
1. What and why did you tap there?
2. Exceeded the power of freezing, loading immediately a large number of products. For your model - no more than 6 kg per day in small portions. Overload threatens compressor failure, overheating of the cooling circuit and the system as a whole.
3. They allowed the refrigerator to build up clods of ice (I understand correctly, in this model the freezer is below?)
What can you do:
Remove everything from the refrigerator and freezer. Open the doors and wait at least a day. Wipe the refrigerator, clean the drain. Then turn on and check the operability. If it doesn’t work out, it means that you have “fired” the refrigerator until it’s tight. Call the master and do not torment the device.
Good afternoon. We have a Stinol-104 unit. In the freezer -31, in the refrigerator +20. Nowhere is ice, moisture, or traces of leakage.
Thawed, washed, dried for 2 days. Turned on for 1 - after 3 hours the situation is the same. In this case, the compressor operates as usual quietly, but does not interrupt at all. Those. does not turn off. What could it be?
In our collective farm with the masters strained. Is it worth repairing? Thank you
Hello. An interesting three-chamber model with a dual-vapor system, which gives me the right to think - your “cold sore” is like a leak. It can also be a blockage of partial capillaries, a compressor defect.
It is difficult to diagnose without seeing the device, but the biggest suspicion of a leak is to call the wizard. Diagnose the capillary yourself. Whether it is worth it or not depends on the condition of the refrigerator and the local price.
Good afternoon. Two-chamber refrigerator Atlant MXM-1716-00 KShD-310/80 (1 compressor). After the next defrosting and thawing, the refrigerator does not work at all, and the freezer works.The copper pipe from the compressor to the freezer is hot, the pipe to the refrigerator is slightly warm. The refrigerator did not turn over, the seals are intact, etc. What could be the reason?
Hello. According to your description, I can assume a blockage in the capillary tube. Also check for leaking freon. But first, clean the capillary.
Contact the workshop in which certified refrigerators work, we support the opinion that the matter is in the leak of freon.
How to clean the capillary tube?
Clogged filter drier or capillary system. In addition to freon, the oil necessary for lubricating the motor also circulates in the refrigerator. Over time, from heating and cooling, the oil “burns” and “blood clots” can form in the filter drier or in the capillary system of the refrigerator. Need diagnostics using vacuum equipment.
If the fears are confirmed, the master will eliminate the “blood clot”, change the oil and freon. Motor decompression. The operating pressure in the motor is from 4 to 10 atmospheres. During decompression, the pressure is lower than necessary, so that it is only enough for the freezer. Most often this is due to natural wear and tear.
The problem with the defrost valve (for electronically controlled refrigerators) is that it is stuck in the freezer mode and does not switch to the refrigerator compartment. Replacement of a failed assembly is required.
Good afternoon! Please help with advice. I’ve been tormenting with a refrigerator for 2 weeks already. Model Bosh KGN 39VI11R. It has no-frost, 1 compressor, 2 cameras. The refrigerator is chilling, then not.
Initially, it was advised to carry out a full defrost during the day - after that I worked for half a day and the error returned.
After calling the wizard:
1 time - The master recorded that the fan does not start when the compressor is running. After restarting the refrigerator, the fan began to turn on. The master suggested that most likely the matter is in the control unit - he changed it.
After that, the refrigerator managed to work out for about a day, then the problem returned.
2 times - The master returned the old control unit. He suggested that the problem could be either with the fan or with the sensors (buttons) for closing the doors, although there were no problems with their ringing. Changed the fan.
The problem has not gone away.
3 times - The master changed the door closure sensors. The old fan did not return.
The problem has not gone away.
After that, I found the moment that the compressor is working, and the fan does not start. I checked it 2 times, by clamping the door closure sensors for 30 seconds. After that, after a maximum of 20 seconds I checked it again, and the fan already started.
What could be the reason? Should I continue to work with this wizard? Although he seems to have no more ideas.