Do-it-yourself toilet drain tank repair: instructions for fixing typical breakdowns

Amir Gumarov
Checked by a specialist: Amir Gumarov
Author: Inna Alekseeva
Last update: March 2019

Did you find that your toilet flush tank has refused to fulfill its responsibilities? You must admit that the toilet has long been one of the most necessary types of sanitary equipment for a person’s comfortable life, so it’s hard to call its breakdown a joyful event. Do you want to repair the toilet flush tank yourself, but do not know where to start and where to look for the problem?

We will show you how to find the source of trouble and fix it on your own - the article outlines ways to eliminate common problems. A detailed procedure has been examined to cope with all popular breakdowns.

Repair tips are provided with photographs that will help to understand in detail the device of the drain mechanism. To help the home master, video recommendations are given for disassembling the tank, eliminating leaks, and replacing fittings.

Varieties of drain tanks

Before you start repairing equipment, you need to get acquainted with its device and the principle of operation. The toilet itself consists of a bowl and a container filled with water. It is the capacity that is called the drain tank.

The water in it enters the bowl, where it flushes its contents into the sewer system. The drain system is activated by pressing a lever or a button. It depends on the model of equipment.

On sale you can find drain tanks of various types. There are several classifications of such equipment. According to the location of the tank relative to the bowl, two main categories are distinguished.

Completely separate designs. It is assumed that in this case, the tank and the bowl are separated. This is the very first toilet option available. The height of the tank may have various modifications.

A high position suggests that the drain tank is a meter or more away from the bowl. Elements are interconnected by a pipe. This option was the most common relatively recently.

Do-it-yourself repair of a separate flush toilet bowl
Separate design with a low tank. In this case, the water release mechanism can be not only a lever

This is because the high location of the drain tank guarantees high speed and good pressure of the water entering the flush. Today, such models are used less frequently.

Modifications with a drain tank hidden in the attic or under the false ceiling are popular.

Another variety is built-in tankswhich are equipped with hanging toilets. They are fixed in a special installation.

The low location of the tank suggests that it is mounted on the wall at a small distance from the bowl. They are connected by a short pipe. Drain valves are located on the tank body.

Since the height with which the water merges is smaller, its speed and pressure are somewhat lower.

Drain tank toilet bowls fits right on the bowl. For this, it is equipped with a special shelf. Such models are very convenient in installation and operation, but the pressure of water and its speed when flushing are minimal.

Compacts are produced with trapezoidal and triangular shaped tanks. Such toilets are called corner. They fit very well into the corners of the rooms, it is especially convenient to install them in small bathrooms.

Monoblock toilets. The design is a toilet bowl, into the body of which a drain tank is integrated. Such equipment is very easy to install. It is only required to bring water and connect the device to the sewer.

This can be considered the main advantage of the monoblock. When serious breakdowns occur in any part of the monoblock, it is most often necessary to change it, since a monolithic design most often prevents full repair.

You can read more about the different types of toilets. in this material.

The device of various drainage mechanisms

There is a water drainage mechanism inside each drain tank.

Today there are several varieties of this design:

  • Lever. It is a lever, by pressing which the descent of water into the bowl is activated. It is mounted in separate toilets, in tanks with an upper and lower arrangement.
  • Pneumatic. The trigger mechanism is activated by pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber, which is connected to the exhaust valve using a flexible duct.
  • Stock. To open the drain valve, you must raise the vertical stem, which is displayed on the top of the tank cap.
  • Push-button. The drain mechanism in this model is started by pressing a button on the drain tank lid. There are two-button variations in which one of the buttons is responsible for draining half of the tank, the second for draining all the water in the tank.

All tanks are filled with water strictly to a certain level, after which their filling automatically stops.

The device of the lever drain
Lever release mechanism. It is used most often in old models of drain tanks or in stylized antique design devices

Depending on the method of supplying water to the tank, valves of various types may be built-in. Floatless valves can be lower and side.

In this case, there is a special camera in the design, in its appearance resembling an inverted glass.

The principle of operation of the device is based on Archimedean force. It changes its value depending on the degree of filling of the tank and changes the position of the chamber blocking the water supply.

The side float valve is either diaphragm or piston type. In any case, it blocks the water when a certain volume of liquid enters the tank.

All fittings can be represented as independent interchangeable elements or as a single structural kit.

Flush toilet bowl with bottom water connection
Flush toilet bowl with bottom water connection.The most hassle-free and silent option, therefore it is especially popular in urban apartments

According to the type of connection of water fittings, all drain tanks are divided into two groups.

  • Side. The eyeliner is connected to the right or left. The tank is usually equipped with two holes. Out of service is blocked by a special plug. The main disadvantages of such tanks are noise when filling the tank with water and an unaesthetic connection of the water pipe, which cannot be masked.
  • Lower. A water supply pipe is connected at the bottom of the tank. Thus, you can hide the water fittings. In addition, when filling the tank with water, minimal noise is created.

Each of the types of flushing cisterns finds its consumers and is used in various models of toilets.

The main elements of the drain tank

Structurally, all variations of the drain tanks are arranged approximately the same. Each of them has three main mechanisms.

Drain or shutoff valves designed to regulate the discharge of water into the toilet bowl. Prevents leakage of fluid from the tank.

In the process of filling the tank, the water in it contributes to the fact that the shut-off valve is pressed against the drain hole as tightly as possible, which prevents water from draining into the bowl.

If there is a constant leakage of water, perhaps this is due to a malfunction of the shutoff valve. Read more about shutoff valves in the drain tank Further.

Filling valve It is combined with the water supplying device. Designed to control the level of liquid in the drain tank. It stops the flow of water as soon as it reaches a certain level.

To determine the amount of liquid in the tank, a float is used, connected by a rod to the filling valve.

Regardless of where the bulk is located - the valve is on the side or bottom - the float is placed vertically in the tank. In older models - horizontally.

Overflow and drain mechanism represented by fittings equipped with a start button or lever. Designed to prevent overflow of water from the tank when the float valve breaks.

The overflow system is connected to the drain, when you press the start button, it is activated. Excess water is discharged into the sewer. An important element of the mechanism is float crane. Water leaks from the tank are most often associated with its functioning.

Float valve in older models
The float valve in older models was ubiquitous. The float rises with the water arriving in the tank and at a certain level closes the valve

You need to understand that all common malfunctions of the drain tank are associated with these mechanisms. And to fix the problems, these elements will have to be replaced or adjusted.

If chips or cracks appeared on the surface of the tank, most likely it will have to replace. Despite the claims of manufacturers, most modern adhesives used for repairs can not cope with this task.

Common troubleshooting

Practice shows that the malfunction of the drain tank is very diverse. We will consider only those that happen most often.

Problem # 1 - water leaking onto the floor

Sometimes clean water begins to appear around the toilet. The cause of this phenomenon is most likely the wear of the o-ring, which is mounted between the bowl and the tank in the compact toilets.

Alternatively, a leak in the gasket of the mounting bolts may cause leakage. It is very easy to detect these faults. Enough careful visual inspection.

Sealing ring
To replace the o-ring located between the bowl and the drain tank, you need to remove the cover, fittings and dismantle the tank

If the diagnosis showed a problem, you can try to tighten the fasteners. This must be done very carefully so as not to destroy the gaskets. If no positive effect is observed, remove the tank and change the seal and gaskets.

It runs like this:

  1. We shut off the water supply, completely drain it from the tank.
  2. We remove a flexible eyeliner.
  3. Remove the tank cap, find the fasteners and carefully unscrew them.
  4. We remove the drain tank.
  5. We remove the old seal, we clean its seat on the tank and on the toilet.
  6. In the prepared place we put a new seal, on top of the drain tank.
  7. We insert the fasteners into place and carefully tighten them.
  8. We connect a flexible eyeliner, and then open the water.

Similarly, gaskets are also replaced. In this case, after the tank is removed from its place, dismantled gaskets are dismantled.

Their seats are also cleaned, after which the installation of new ones is carried out. To seal the joints, experts recommend additionally lubricating them with silicone.

Also on our site there is an entire article devoted to the problem of leakage. toilet bowl. We recommend reading it.

Problem # 2 - no water enters the drain tank

A frequent breakdown is considered the case when water very poorly enters the tank, or even does not fall into it at all. There may be several reasons. We offer instructions on how to fix the toilet flush tank in this case.

First of all, you need to check the condition of the flexible inlet hose. If it fails, water cannot enter the tank. To do this, we shut off the water supply, and then disconnect the eyeliner from the toilet.

Clogged valve
If no filter is installed on the water supply pipe, contaminants and rust will enter the drain tank. As a result, the inlet valve may clog easily and will have to be cleaned.

Do not disconnect the hose from the tank. Now we direct the hose to the toilet and open the shutoff valve on the water supply. If everything is OK with the eyeliner, water will flow into the toilet. If this is not the case, continue to look for a malfunction.

If the water does not run, turn off the water, completely disconnect the hose and replace it with a new one. Another reason that water does not flow into the drain tank is the clogging of a narrow part of the inlet valve.

To get rid of clogging, it is necessary to clean the lumen with a thin wire or a needle.Then we unscrew the valve at the inlet pipe and rinse the remaining clogging.

After the water begins to flow freely into the tank, we twist the valve and put the float and valve with lever in the initial position. It so happens that the valve cannot be cleaned. In this case, it must be removed and replaced with a new one.

The following selection will familiarize with the sequence of work to eliminate violations in the operation of the float mechanism:

Problem # 3 - constantly leaking water into the bowl

Sometimes water constantly flows into the bowl. The cause of this malfunction is the breakdown of the float device, which, when filling the tank, does not turn off the water supply.

If this happens, it can be assumed that the water inlet valve in the tank has broken, the float or the lever that includes the drain mechanism are not working properly, is in the wrong position.

If the tank is an old model, repair work must begin with an inspection of the float. This is a plastic hollow container. Very often, as a result of prolonged use, cracks appear on it, through which water penetrates into the float and it begins to sink.

If so, the assembly requires replacement. To do this, unscrew the fixing screw on which the float rests and install a new part.

Float Repair
As a result of long operation, the float may fail, then water gets into the part. The float gets heavier and can't handle its functions.

In more modern models of tanks there are no floats. To close the inlet valve, a unit called a drain column is used. It can be equipped with a mechanism that regulates the level of filling the tank.

Such a column is most often unsuitable for repair. In the event of failure, the assembly requires a complete replacement.

To eliminate leaks in the flush valve area, the following actions are performed:

Water leakage is possible with an inlet valve malfunction. His work needs to be meticulously checked.

We perform the following operations:

  1. We carefully examine for damage and malfunctions the lever located next to the valve.
  2. We lower the water and watch how the tank fills.
  3. We move the rocker arm. It must be in such a position as to block the inlet valve. If the lever is bent, we correct its configuration.
  4. If the lever does not move, then the node responsible for its movement is jammed. We are replacing this node.

Another reason that water constantly leaks into the bowl. This is a malfunction of the intake valve itself. It may break due to pressure surges in the water supply. In this case, it will have to be replaced.

For this, the unit is dismantled, after which a similar part is purchased in the store. It is set in place. Do the same in the event of failure of the exhaust valve. It also needs to be dismantled and replaced.

To eliminate leakage from the shutoff valve, you must first try tightening the packing nut. It is located in the center of the valve, it is sealed here by turning 1/8 of a full circle clockwise. If this does not help, then proceed to cleaning the site of sediment:

If the manipulations done with the shut-off valve did not lead to the proper result, then this device will have to be changed.

For more information on why the toilet bowl does not hold water, see this stuff.

Problem # 4 - wear on internal fittings

It happens that several malfunctions occur at once or the nodes are already very worn out. In this case, it will be easiest to change the fittings - the inside of the toilet bowl. Begin by examining the tank structure.

As we already know, despite the general principle of operation, drain tanks have a large number of modifications. We will consider in detail the replacement of the internal fittings of the drain tank with the bottom connection.

Valve Replacement
If the cistern of the drain tank is whole and the “insides” do not work, the best way out is to completely replace the internal fittings

Before starting work, we will prepare pliers and wrenches. Next, we sequentially perform the following operations:

  1. We block the water supply to the tank and drain the water from it.
  2. Open the lid of the tank. If it is with a button, then first we dismantle it. Depending on the model, for this we need to either unscrew it or remove special clips.
  3. Disconnect the water supply hose.
  4. We turn the upper part of the drain column at a right angle and remove.
  5. We find the fixing bolts that hold the tank on the toilet, and carefully unscrew them.
  6. Put the tank on the toilet.
  7. We find fasteners that fix the drain column and inlet valve, and unscrew them.
  8. We take out the old reinforcement and prepare a new one.
  9. We install everything in the reverse order and put the tank in place.

When installing a new drain column, some points must be taken into account. The assembly is mounted above the outlet and is fixed from below with a special threaded sleeve.

The inlet valve, together with the mechanism regulating the filling of the tank, is placed above the inlet, after which the assembly is fixed on the bottom of the tank with a threaded sleeve.

We can offer you to read other articles on the wear of the drain tank fittings:

  1. Fittings for the toilet flush tank: how the spillway device works and works
  2. Setting up the toilet fittings: how to properly adjust the spillway

Problem # 5 - noise when filling the tank

This is not a breakdown, since all mechanisms are functioning properly. However, filling the tank too loud often causes discomfort, and I want the capacity to be quieter.

Usually noise tanks with top liner. To solve this problem, you first need to inspect the inlet. There are models where you can adjust its diameter.

If the filling of the tank is too noisy, the hole section must be reduced. In this case, the water will flow slower, but annoying loud noises will disappear.

Fittings
A full set of internal fittings for the drain tank of a modern model can be bought at any specialized plumbing store

If the hole diameter cannot be adjusted, you can try to slightly modify the internal structure of the tank.

To do this, find a rubber or plastic tube, the cross section of which should correspond to the diameter of the inlet. The length of the part should be approximately 25-30 cm.

We put the tube on the inlet, fix it so that it does not tear off when water enters. Then lower the second end of the part to the bottom of the tank. That's all, actually.

Now the water will enter the tank through the tube, which will significantly reduce unpleasant noise. The liquid will no longer fall under pressure from a height, but will immediately fall into the lower part of the tank.

Problem # 6 - sticking one or two buttons

This modification is very popular because it saves water. Sometimes buttons begin to sink in her. In this case, you must first remove the lid from the tank. To do this, the water pipe is blocked, then the tank is emptied.

Next, use a screwdriver to very carefully unscrew the plastic nut located near the buttons. Now the cover can be removed. We press both buttons at once and release. Sometimes they fall into place.

Two-button reservoir
A two-button drain tank helps save water, which is why these models are preferred by those who monitor their spending

If this is not the case, check the button shaft. If it is clogged, the parts will not be able to snap into place. In this case, we clean the shaft and install the buttons. If this does not help, you may have to change the entire node.

We carefully dismantle it, purchase a part similar in all characteristics to the store and put it in its place. A one-button model is also being repaired.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The recommendations of professionals will help to avoid mistakes that are often made by beginners.

How to replace the drain tank fittings:

Remove the cover from the drain tank with a button:

What to do if there is a leak in the valve of the drain tank:

Repairing the toilet flush tank is quite simple and affordable for anyone, even beginners. There is nothing complicated in the repair work. Damaged nodes are diagnosed very easily..

If desired, you can quickly and efficiently repair the drain tank or, if the fittings are completely out of order, replace it with a new one.

Experts advise novice craftsmen in case of problems with the tank body (for example, a crack has appeared) not to engage in cosmetic repairs, but to replace the entire tank.Most likely, all the efforts spent on repairs will be ineffectual, that is, time and money will be wasted.

If you have already encountered a breakdown of the toilet flush tank, please share with our readers exactly what problem you had and how you managed to solve it. Also, in the block with comments you can ask a question of interest to the topic of the article.

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Visitors Comments
  1. Basil

    Yes, and this “problem” did not pass me by. By the way, what I have, what my friends have, if not with a sinking float, a problem, then with a cuff leak. Without exception! Some kind of misfortune. But in general, not everything is so terrible, valve replacement is literally five minutes, if you know what and how. There is only one conclusion: buy good plumbing and operate with attention! In order not to engage in “self-repair” later.

  2. Boris

    There was a problem of a constant leak of water into the toilet bowl after the tank is already full. First I changed the seal, tightened everything, but the problem did not disappear. A rusty path began to appear from the water, which was annoying (I’m silent about the overpayment for water). I started to understand, it turned out that the float does not get into the right position after filling the tank.

    I decided to change, but did not have time, accidentally split the tank, I had to change. Took without a float, a more modern model. Having the experience of my curvature, I no longer took up either delivery or installation. And I won’t take up repairs anymore! My question is: why are these tanks and toilet bowls made of such material ?! Is it really impossible to think of anything better in the 21st century? The baths do so that they do not split! And here is the catch ?! Why are they so heavy ?! Well, the toilet should be able to withstand a lot of weight if necessary, but why the cistern ?!

    • Expert
      Amir Gumarov
      Expert

      Hello. I will answer your question.

      Erroneous opinion. The toilet bowl can be made of different materials - earthenware, plastic, cast iron, stainless steel, porcelain, gold, stone, bronze and so on. The cheapest of the easy options is plastic. But he is short-lived and unaesthetically looking. Therefore, it is used mainly in cottages. The rest of the materials are either expensive or too heavy.

      Remains the most budgetary and common option - sanitary ware. But it is heavy, which, in principle, does not interfere with operation. So they sell in stores what is bought - sanitary ware. In large plumbing shops, you can find different materials for tanks.

  3. Andrew

    From the point of view of the Theory of Automatic Regulation (TAP), the “float-filling valve” system is an analog system for regulating the level of liquid (water) in a tank with feedback. When positive feedback occurs in a feedback system, the system becomes a generator and starts to hum. In addition, in the analog system there are no two clear states of the filling valve: “open” and “closed”.

    From the point of view of theory, it is necessary to add a mechanical RS-trigger to such a system and turn it from analog to digital with two clear states: “open” and “closed”. At the same time, the entire system turns into a mechanic-hydraulic “Schmitt precision trigger” (“Schmitt trigger with RS-trigger”, “rocker switch”, “toggle switch”).The simplest way to add an RS-trigger to the system is to “pull” the float with an elastic band or spring to stretch with rope or wire rods, so that in the upper position the elastic force is higher than the “peroxide” line.

  4. Sergei

    By the way, a good question. Before that, I had never even thought about this. On the one hand, tanks can be made of durable plastic, but in the end, this is a different production, which means additional costs. On the other hand, it is possible to make the toilet itself out of high-strength plastic, which will last even longer than ceramic. Apparently the production of ceramic toilets is the most profitable, I see no other explanation for this.

    On the topic, I would also like to add such a thing, if the gasket is numb and water seeps from under the tank, you can put it in boiling water. So it will become a little more elastic. Although this is a temporary option, but can someone help. Of course, it’s better to go straight ahead and buy the entire fittings - much more practical. The truth is that with the replacement, difficulties may arise, especially if you are doing this for the first time. I personally, for the first time, bothered about an hour and a half.

  5. Good afternoon, please consult who is in the subject. In a tank with a bottom water connection there were no problems for many years. Water began to pour badly. I cleaned the filter at the bottom of the inlet. It helped. Then again. As it turned out: water is drawn in by the finest trickle, but if you shut off the water supply and immediately open it again, there is a normal set of water in the tank. If you flush the water again - it does not recruit again. Those. after each shutdown of water and subsequent switching on - water is collected normally. Then, after the descent, it is again typed drop by drop (30-50 minutes a tank). The reason is incomprehensible !!! The intake mechanism - in the photo, I have not found analogues anywhere to disassemble, clean. There are no nuts on top, etc. Is it non-separable? Can someone tell me what kind of mechanism it is, is it possible to disassemble and clean it, and how to solve my problem with a set of water? Tortured ... Thanks.

    Water, when it goes normally, enters the tank through a pipe that goes from above in the photo.

    Attached photos:
    • Expert
      Amir Gumarov
      Expert

      Hello, Yuri. Judging by the described symptoms, the problem is associated with the intake mechanism itself. Here you can even see with a naked eye that the mechanism needs to be thoroughly cleaned, like the filter itself.

      Since after cleaning the filter the problem was fixed for a short time, it is obvious that the problem is a blockage. That is, when you turn off the water and then turn it on sharply, then the water hammer shifts the blockage from solid deposits, after which the mechanism works for a short time.

      There are two outputs:
      1. Disassemble completely the mechanism and thoroughly clean;
      2. If the first item is not feasible due to design features, then you need to buy a new mechanism and replace the old one.

      But it will be easier to immediately go to the second option, for example, the inlet Azor Combi 3/8 with a lower supply will suit you, the price is 8-10 dollars. Well, or analogues.

      Attached photos:
  6. Novel

    I bought three toilet bowls of this manufacturer at home. The material of the plastic nut that fastens the water supply nipple to the side of the tank is very poor. This nut breaks along the thread and water trickles through this crack. As a result, water is poured all the time in the tank and discharged into the toilet.

    After some time, yellow stains form on the toilet from the flow from this constant flow. Already 2 pieces have broken. I tried to glue it with various glue, but so in this place a lot of tension after a while breaks again. Repair kit can not be found!

  7. Arina

    Hello, I can not solve the problem associated with the drain button. My water does not pour in, that is, the button works idle. But when you forcefully drain, water is collected and does not flow anywhere ... What should I do please tell me ..?

    Attached photos:
    • Expert
      Amir Gumarov
      Expert

      Hello Anna. You have some kind of breakdown in the drain tank fittings that is responsible for draining. Most likely, there is a malfunction in the node connecting the button and the lifting mechanism, which actually ensures normal drainage of water in the tank. To repair in this case is not profitable and too time-consuming, it is easier to buy a new valve.

      To pick up the same or most similar stop valves, you need to unscrew this. Dry it and go to the plumbing store with it. Finding exactly this or the right one is five minutes. The cost is about 5-7 dollars, there are more expensive options, but it makes no sense to overpay for them. I separately recommend buying spare seals for valves, they need to be replaced every 2-3 years. Remember to shut off the water before carrying out valve replacement work.

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